Chicken with Mushroom Hash

Why is it, when I think of hash, I think only of grated potatoes browned in a pan?  When I found this recipe in the Food & Wine 2006 cookbook, my first reaction was "yum" and my second was "whatever you say."  Because the hash in this recipe is cubed potatoes, mushrooms, and pears.  In my limited little brain, that's not hash.  But apparently, I'm wrong as I found approximately one billion recipes afterwards that defy my definition of what hash is.  (And by the way, don't research the subject with Google searches like "what is hash?"  You will learn more about the pasty marijuana substance than you ever needed to know.)

Chicken with Mushroom Hash

Four 8- to 10-oz bone-in chicken breast halves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
8 oz. sliced white mushrooms
1 tsp thyme
1/2 cup water
2 Bosc pears, cored and cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1.  Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.  Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper.  In a large, deep skillet, heat 3 tbsp of olive oil  until shimmering.  Add the chicken, skin side down, and cook over moderately high heat, turning once, until browned, about 6 minutes.  Transfer to a baking dish.  Roast the chicken for 15 minutes, or until the juices run clear when the breasts are pierced.

2.  Meanwhile, in the same skillet, heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil until shimmering.  Add the onion and cook, stirring, until barely softened, 3 minutes.  Add the potatoes, mushrooms and thyme and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes; season with salt and pepper.  Add the water, cover and cook until the potatoes are browned, about 7 minutes.  Add the pears, cover and cook over moderately low heat until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes longer.  Transfer the chicken to plates and serve with the hash.

The Verdict:  Perfection!

This dish is wonderful in many ways.  The first is that it's a visual feast.  It's stunningly beautiful with an autumn palate of golden browns, russets, and yellows.  And not surprisingly, the taste matches the beauty of the plate.  Crisping the chicken skin then roasting it in the oven allows for a lovely, crispy skin that envelops a juicy breast.  And that breast is a perfect combination with the hash.  The hash has soft, almost buttery potatoes, earthy mushrooms and sweet pears.  I wasn't sure that adding a half cup of water while cooking the hash would do anything for the taste.  I was tempted to add chicken broth, but no need.  The water helps to break down the ingredients, creating a very moist composite of fruit and vegetable.  Not anything like the hash I'm used to--and so, so, so much better.

The original recipe calls for shiitake mushrooms.  I'm sure that makes the dish even more decadent, but while I was shopping, I didn't like how the shiitakes at the market looked.  So I went with plain white mushrooms and they were fantastic.  Use either.  Also, they suggest fresh thyme.  As I've written before, I don't use many fresh herbs, especially during the winter.  The dried thyme tasted great, but if you have fresh, you might want to give it a try.  Add two springs and discard before serving.

Make this dish during the fall or winter then have people over.  I promise they'll think you're some kind of kitchen savant. 

Roast Turkey with Root Vegetables and Gravy

Trying to figure out what to make for Christmas dinner was really hard this year. My husband's helpful input was, "I don't care," leaving me with the decision. At first, I thought about roast beef. Then it was rack of lamb. I then briefly considered a roasted goose, but after seeing one at Whole Foods for $75, that was abandoned as well. (Seventy five bucks? Was it the goose that laid golden eggs for crying out loud?) Finally, I decided on a roast turkey recipe I found in Saveur. Turkey is, after all, the American standby for traditional holidays, right?

This recipe uses a turkey that's been split into eight pieces. While a whole roasted bird is a beautiful and makes a stunning presentation at the dinner table, moments later it's carved and completely annihilated. A bird that's been split up actually roasts better and more evenly; you are also able to peel back the skin a lot more easily to rub down the meat with butter and spices. And best of all, for a small family like ours, you don't have to roast an entire bird. We did only a half breast, two legs and two thighs. It was more than enough for our Christmas meal--in fact, we had it for leftovers tonight and I'll also be able to make a soup!

Roast Turkey with Root Vegetables and Gravy

12 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
3 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tbsp sweet paprika
2 shallots, minced
1 12-lb turkey, cut into 8 pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
4 medium potatoes, cut into 2" pieces
3 carrots, cut into 2" pieces
3 turnips, cut into 2" pieces
1 celery root, cut into 2" pieces
1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into 2" pieces
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
5 sprigs each fresh thyme and rosemary
1 cup white wine or sherry
1 tbsp cornstarch

1. Heat oven to 500 degrees F. In a bowl, mix butter, parsley, cumin, paprika, and shallots; set aside. Season turkey with salt and pepper. Loosen skin; rub butter under skin. Combine root vegetables in a large bowl. Drizzle with oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss. Transfer vegetables to a large roasting pan; spread to cover bottom. Arrange thyme and rosemary over vegetables. Arrange turkey over herbs and vegetables. Roast turkey for 20 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees F; roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into each turkey breast reads 150 degrees F and each leg, thigh, and wing reads 160 degrees F, about 1 hour. (Some pieces will be done before others.) Continue cooking vegetables until tender. Discard herbs; transfer vegetables to a serving platter along with turkey and tent with foil to keep warm.

2. Pour pan juices into a large measuring cup. Pour off and discard fat; transfer liquid to a 2-qt saucepan. Add wine; bring to a boil. Cook until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together cornstarch and 1/2 cup water in a small bowl. Stir cornstarch mixture into reduced liquid; return to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Serve gravy with turkey and vegetables.

The Verdict: Just as good as a whole roasted turkey. Probably juicier, definitely more golden brown, and the ability to lift the skin and season each piece gives the turkey a new herbal kick you don't find in a traditional bird.

Because we skipped the second breast and wings, I prepared the turkey with half the butter mixture. That means I reduced the amount of herbs I used a bit and only used one shallot. Additionally, I didn't use fresh thyme and rosemary. Instead, I used about a tablespoon of each and mixed it into the vegetables when tossing them with olive oil.

I omitted potatoes because I wanted to make sage mashed potatoes as a side (recipe follows). Feel free to use whatever root vegetables you desire. I cooked extra carrots as I always do because the whole family loves them. I also used a large turnip instead of three small ones. There are lots of vegetables in this dish, but I think that they lend a fantastic taste to the gravy.

Like most folks, roasting a turkey isn't an everyday affair. So the likelihood of making this again any time soon is slim, but only because it's a special occasion dish. But we thoroughly enjoyed it and it makes the most sense for a small family who would otherwise eat turkey until we gag to cook it in pieces instead.